Glossary

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

“A”

A-Bisabolol - Bisabolol, is extracted from the candeia plant, has great anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties, which makes it a natural ingredient to use in skincare products. It also contains anti-bacterial as well as anti-fungal properties.

Acne - A chronic inflammatory skin condition characterised by eruptions of the skin that can appear on almost any part of the body, but are usually on the face. These eruptions typically develop when a hair follicle becomes plugged with sebum and dead cells. They can appear at any time but especially during the teenage years and pregnancy due to rising hormone levels causing excessive stimulation.

Achillea Milleflolioum Extract - Astrigent, toning, sedative, antiseborrheic.

Aldenine - A complex of a tripeptide and hydrolyzed soy and wheat protein that boosts collagen 111 synthesis whilst protecting cells from photo damage. Aldenine detoxifies the skin from harmful Reactive Carbonyl Species (RCS).

Allantoin - An extract from the comfrey plant used in creams and skin preparations to heal and soothe. It is often included in preparations for irritated, sensitive and acne affected skins.

Almond Oil - Contains amygdaline 3%, proteins, cyanide and sugar. It’s soothing dry skin.

Aluminium Acetate - Astringent, antiseptic.

Algae Extract (seaweed extr.) - Is a thickened concentrated extract from focus vesiculosus, laminaria digitata, agar and scenedesmus. The reaction on the skin is caused by the combined action of various biological substances: various sugar, in particular mannitol and other polysaccharides such as agarose, laminaribose, laminarinfucoidin. Proteins and amino acids. They have the effect of a natural moisturizer (is similar to that of a “biological sprong”.They delay the degeneration of the cells.

Aloe Vera - A plant with softening and healing properties that may be used to soothe and heal cuts, burns and abrasions. It is also commonly used in cosmetics for its softening properties.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) - This organic acid is produced by fermentation. Skin care products containing AHA exfoliate not only dry, dead and damaged skin cells, but the skin's protective barrier as well. Long-term skin damage may result from its use.

Amino Acids - This group of compounds contains both the carboxyl (COOH) and the amino (NH2) groups. They are the building blocks of proteins and are crucial to the maintenance of the body. Essential amino acids, including histidine, leucine and lysine, cannot be manufactured by the body and must be supplied in the diet. Non-essential amino acids, including arginine, cystine and taurinc, are manufactured by the body. Many of these compounds are beneficial to the skin when included as ingredients in facial and body lotions, as they help to moisturize, restore and prevent wrinkles and other signs of premature aging.

Antiphlogisticum “ARO” - Penthanol, urea, ammonium glycyrrhizate, allantoin, anti-intflammatory, antiallergenic, protective.

Apricot Kernel Oil - It is notable for its high non-saturated fatty acid content, containing in particular linoleic acid (22-31%), emollient.

Antioxidant -These substances prevent the formation of free radicals, which can cause the oxidative deterioration that causes premature aging of the skin. Natural antioxidants like vitamins A, C and E are often included in skin care products to help fight wrinkles and other signs of aging.

Aromatherapy - Based on the belief that smell is an important part of healing, this traditional therapy has been used since ancient times to soothe both body and mind. Essences of flower petals, leaves, twigs roots and other natural elements are extracted mixed with oils for massaging the body or rubbing into the hands. Additionally, they are often used to infuse of soaps, cosmetics and ointments with restorative and energizing scents.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) - A preservative and antioxidant widely used in cosmetic creams, hair dyes and conditioners. Vitamin C is promoted in anti-wrinkle products and is necessary for normal healthy teeth, bones and blood vessels.

Astrigent - A clearing liquid containing mostly alcohol that is used for contraction and tightening of organic tissue.

ASC ||| ( Amplifier of Synthesis of Collagen |||) - The aim of ASC ||| is to selectively amplify the biosynthesis of Collagen ||| in skin. A carrier liposome with hydro-xyproline molecules on its surface acting as a trigger to induce the modulation of cellular phenotypes. Among the observed changes, the increase of Collagen ||| synthesis is the most significant phenomenon.

Avocado Oil, Avocadin - In contains 25-30% phytosterols (are a component of the lipid layer of the skin), tocopherol, triterpene alcohols and ketosteroids. Phytosterols have positive effects on senile skin atrophy, follow up tritment of scars, flakiness, rough skin and age spots. The hydrating effect of sterols is explained both by the OH – groups and by the reduction of the skin surface through the formation of film. At the same time the phytosterol film on the skin works like a depot in the lipid filled inter-cellular space of the horny skin layer from which oil soluble active ingredients such as tocopherol, carotinoide or bisabolol can diffuse.

Azulene - Antiphlogistic properties, colouring. 18 – glycyrrhetinic acid is a polycyclic triterpene, that is produced from the roots of the liquorince plant ( gllycyrrhiza glabra L). The anti-inflammatory, healing and anti-ucler capacities have been proven. The pharmacological property of hydrocortisone, but it doesn’t have the side-effects that are typical of the cosmetically forbidden steroid hormones.

“B”

Beauty Mask - high-skin care.

Seaweed - Mask with crushed or micron zed algae. It nourishes the skin micronutrient-rich, main of which is iodine.
Collagen - a mask with collagen sheets. It has excellent moisturizing and softening action.
Nutritional - the active part of such masks, namely Supplements of plant, animal or mineral origin, is readily absorbed by cells of the skin.
Plastic - cosmetic, designed to effect tightening of the skin. To include a plastic mask on the basis of natural and synthetic plasticizers: paraffin. resins, pectin’s and other gel former. The mask is reduced in volume and tightens the skin. It disappearing the tension of facial muscles, which smoothes out wrinkles.
Thermo mask - mask with thermal effect, which helps to improve blood circulation in the skin.

Beta Hydroxy Acid - A group of chemicals that refines skin texture by reducing the thickness of the outer layer through surface exfoliation.

Botanical Extract - An extract of herbs and plants, dissolved with water oil or alcohol.

Buffer - A pH-balanced cleanser that makes the skin softer and shinier.

Bromelain - An enzyme that dissolves deadened cellular debris to refresh and refinish the skins texture, promotes a revitalized complexion by inspiring heightened cellular renewal, assists in pore clearing.

“C”

Caffeine -Acts as a skin stimulant that promotes circulation, lymphatic drainage and ingredient assimilation, reduces fatty deposits.

Capillary - The smallest type of blood vessel in the body. Spider veins are dilated capillaries that may be seen near the surface of the skin.

Chamomile - An aromatic plant that may be used internally as an infusion, which when drunk has a mildly sedative quality. It may also be used topically as an antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory and antiseptic agent.

Calcium Carbonate - This chemical compound is generally found in rocks, and can also be produced from a pure quarried source (usually marble), or prepared by passing carbon dioxide into a solution of calcium hydroxide. Calcium carbonate is widely used medicinally as an inexpensive dietary calcium supplement or antacid. As a food additive, it is used in some soymilk products as a source of dietary calcium. In dermal applications, this ingredient is used to draw impurities such as excess sebum from the skin and helps smooth the appearance of skin.

Calendula Officials (Calendula) Flower Extract/Oil (Calendula Officials) - This extract is derived from the Marigold flower, a healing plant with stimulating, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. Good for sensitive skin, this ingredient is an emollient with softening and soothing effects on hair and skin. It is also cleansing and astringent. In a hair rinse, it soothes irritated scalp and improves scalp conditions, as well as enhances the color of yellow and light red hair. When added to skin care formulas, calendula helps soothe and aids irritated skin.

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract (Camellia Sinensis) - The extract of the leaves of a perennial evergreen shrub native to Asia, this ingredient has a long history of therapeutic use, dating back to China approximately 5,000 years ago. Green tea extract is a rich source of anti-oxidants, such as vitamins C and E and is valued for its stimulating, anti-inflammatory and free radical scavenging (anti-oxidant) activity. Green tea extract is said to help repair the effects of aging and environmental factors on skin. It is also believed to help rejuvenate skin, prevent sun damage and promote elasticity. When used in hair care products, green tea extract tones and protects the scalp. This extract is also often found in energizing or revitalizing spa products.

Camphor (Cinnamomum Camphor) - Steam distilled from the cinnamomum camphora tree found in Asia, Africa and the Americas, this essential oil has a strong, penetrating, fragrant odor, a bitter, pungent taste, and is cooling and highly stimulating to the skin. It is a powerful antiseptic that aids in the treatment of respiratory ailments, opens blocked nasal passages, relieves congestion and reduces muscular aches, pains and stiffness. Camphor essential oil is used primarily in lip balms, muscle rubs and bath soaks for cold and flu. It can be used as a deodorant, soothing agent, skin conditioner, aphrodisiac, and muscle relaxant, to care for oily skin and as an insect repellent.

Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract*- Antioxidant, improves collagen content, renews collagen related to weakened connective tissues, prevents scar tissue formation by slowing down excessive collagen production at wound sites, stimulates circulation and the oxygenation of skin tissues

Collagen - This protein is the most abundant in the human body, containing mainly glycerin, hydroxyproline and prioline. It is found in all connective tissues, including skin, cartilage, tendons and ligaments. When the collagen in the skin deteriorates due to aging or overexposure to the sun, wrinkles appear. The substance is sometimes used in cosmetics and toiletries to combat these effects, though there is no evidence that external application is effective.

Carnation - The perfume used clove buds, which are in fact pedicels clove tree growing in Malaysia, Madagascar and Zanzibar. The combination of clove essential oil has a spicy and herbaceous aroma with rose oil can get a flavor of cloves, very important for cosmetics.

Castor oil - its derivatives are found in many cosmetics as it is "non-comedogenic" (does not exacerbate or contribute to acne).

Corn and stone Oils – the most important sources of vitamins E and F, lecithin and phytohormones. Has a rejuvenating effect on skin and capillaries.

CerebrosidesCerebrosides are glycosphingolipids which are important components in animal muscle and nerve cell membranes. They consist of a ceramide with a single sugar residue at the 1-hydroxyl moiety. The sugar residue can be either glucose or galactose; the two major types are therefore called glucocerebrosides and galactocerebrosides.Cerebrosides (cells from the nervous systems of cattle or swine) - were once used in some high-end skin-care products to increase moisture retention and to create a smooth skin surface; however the BSE controversy has put an end to this practice.

“D”

Dermostevia Extract – Stevia, a South American plant, traditionally used be the Guarani Indias, is well know as a strong sweetener (300 times more than saccharose) and a cure for skin diseases, according to the Guarani Pharmacopoeia. Dermostevia is one of the best anti wrinkle natural extract.

Day creams and make-up base - Preparations of this line have good consumer properties; giving the skin a well-groomed appearance, protect it from dehydration, negative environmental influences and UV radiation. When applying self regulate water and lipid balance of the skin. Day creams are also the base for make-up, so should be chosen for skin type and provide a comfortable feeling to the client immediately after the procedure in the cabin, and throughout the day.

Dimethicones – emollient, lubricant, water barrier. detackiffier, gives smooth and silky feel, acts as a miniaturization agent.

DNA Marine Extract – is obtained from desoxyribonucleic acid, extracted from fish milt. It is character-razed by its high phosphorus concentration and tiny traces of proteins. It comes from a yellow liquid. DNA plays an active role in the synthesis of proteins.

DNA Plant Extract – this is an aqueous solution obtained by enzymatic extraction from wheat germ. The DNA is naturally present and it is measured according to Burrton’s method. It is recommended for all problems linked to cell renewal.

D-Panthenol – (provitamin 5) – anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, aids wound-healing effect, caring.

“E”

Eucalyptus Gobulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Extract/Oil - Steam distilled or macerated from the leaves and twigs of eucalyptus grown in Australia, China and Portugal, this essential oil is best known for its ability to aid respiratory ailments and provide relief from flu and congestion. It stimulates circulation, increases concentration and is useful for relieving joint and muscle aches and pains. This oil can help stop the irritation of a bug bite and even prevent one, as it acts as an insect repellent.

Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract/Oil - Steam distilled from the leaves, stem and buds of a slender evergreen native to Indonesia and the Malacca Islands, this potent oil can help to stimulate the mind, aid in digestion, relieve pain from arthritis and rheumatism and ease respiratory problems. The warm, spicy, aromatic oil is effective as an antiseptic, and can be used to treat cuts, bruises and burns.

Exfoliant - A product or ingredient that is used to remove dead skin cells or waste products from the skin. Exfoliants mechanically removed dirt using a gently abrasive action, leaving the skin soft and smooth.

“F”

Face cleaning - cosmetic procedure performed in a beauty salon or at home. Cosmetician designate this procedure for acne, pollution and clogged pores. The procedure involves cleaning of the skin of sebum, dirt and dead cells. Various types of cleaning: mechanical (manual), hardware (vacuum, ultrasound, galvanic, etc.).

Flavor - The particular aromatic blend of essential oils added to a product to impart a taste.

“G”

Glucose - This product of photosynthesis in plants is an organic compound found in fruits and honey. Simple sugar, or monosaccharide, glucose is used in foods, medicine, brewing, and wine making and as the source of various other organic formulas.

Glucose Oxides - Glucose oxidize is found in honey and acts as a natural preservative by reducing atmospheric oxygen to hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide acts as an antimicrobial barrier, helping preserve personal care products by inhibiting the growth of microbes such as bacteria, fungi and viruses.

Glycerin - This sweet-tasting, clear, syrupy liquid is made by combining water and fats derived from vegetable oil. Glycerin is used in moisturizers due to its water binding capabilities that allow it to draw and absorb water from the air helping skin retain moisture. Non-irritating and soothing, it can be used on even the most sensitive skin, and is a common ingredient in clear soaps.

Glycerol Oleate - Used as an emulsifier, this natural surfactant made from sunflower oil is an extremely mild and effective cleanser that rinses quickly.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (Glycine Soja) - Cold pressed from beans native to southwestern Asia and cultivated worldwide in warm regions, this oil is high in linoleic acid, contains proteins and some vitamin A, C, E, and K. It also contains lecithin, which is known for its emulsifying and antioxidant properties. Soybean is a light-textured, nourishing, easily absorbed, odorless oil, suitable as a moisturizer and softener for all skin types. This oil is commonly found in soaps, moisturizers, lipsticks and shampoos.

Grapefruit - The cosmetics used juice, pulp and peel of fruits of grapefruit Juice is considered the most effective and gentle way to whiten skin. Masks and wiping recommended for oily and normal skin. It is useful to use such masks to strengthen and nourish the skin neck. The spots and freckles on the face can be wiped and a slice of grapefruit

Green Tea Extract - sedative, anti-inflammatory, astringent, anti-idiomatic.
Calming Bio-Lipid Repair Creams includes Green Tea Extract, a powerful antioxidant that protects skin from free radical damage that causes premature aging. The polyphenols in green tea act as free radical scavengers soaking up these unstable molecules before they can damage the collagen layer. Green tea extract has also been shown to soothe, heal and calm irritated skin.

“H”

Horsechestnut – hyperemising, protective, cleansing agent. Helps to reduce telangeactasia.

Hyaluronic Acid – conditions the permeability of conjunctive tissue by providing cohesion to the cells, through its viscosity. Strong hydrating, skin protection and caring. Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics is used as a natural moisturizer. Emulsions based on hyaluronic acid are soft and delicate texture, and furthermore it is perfectly compatible with the skin and never cause irritation and allergic reactions. Due to the high molecular weight effect on the skin of hyaluronic acid is limited to horny layer, since the deep layers of the dermis, it can not penetrate. Nevertheless, it really can moisturize the skin in the upper layers and significantly improve its appearance. The solution of hyaluronic acid are well distributed over the entire surface of the skin, forming a light film that actively absorbs moisture from the air, thus increasing the free water in the horny layer, and also creates the effect of "extra moisture, which helps reduce water evaporation from the surface.
Compared to other humidifiers, hyaluronic acid has several advantages. It has the highest hygroscopicity (ability to bind water), and retains its activity in dry atmospheres. This is a valuable quality of hyaluronic acid has been used in medicine to treat wounds.

After the application of cosmetics with hyaluronic acid, skin looks softer, smoother and gentler. This is not just the external effect, characteristic of most of emollients. The fact that a wet environment, which creates a hyaluronic acid at the surface of the skin, reduces evaporation of water through the stratum corneum, as the evaporation rate depends on the relative humidity.

Hydrating - Supplying with ample fluid or water.

Hydrocotyl Extract – hyperemising, aids blood circulation, toning, antioxidant.

Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil - This hard, crystalline wax is made by adding hydrogen to unsaturated jojoba oil, a liquid wax found in the seed of the small, tree-like jojoba plant, native to the southwestern United States and Mexico. The oil is widely used as an emollient, or skin softener, and is a popular addition to cosmetics.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein - This protein has been partially turned into water through hydrolysis. Plant proteins have excellent skin compatibility and when used in personal care products, deposit a protective, smoothing and moisturizing film on the skin and hair. They add gloss, body and luster to hair and create a flexible, strengthening network on the surface of the skin. Wheat protein can help to replicate the elasticity and tone found in youthful, vitalized skin.

Hydro Balance Moisturizing – an important component of care, providing softness of the skin and allows it to look young and beautiful.

Hyssops Officials (Hyssop) Leaf Oil (Hyssops Officials) - Steam distilled from the leaves and flowers of a Mediterranean shrub, this oil has astringent, antiseptic, antiviral, digestive, diuretic, sedative and tonic properties. It can be used as blended massage oil, bath oil, or as in ingredient in a creams or lotions to help treat skin conditions like eczema, inflammation and dermatitis. It can also be used to help disperse bruising.

K”

Kaolin - Also known as China or white clay, this is the mildest of all clays. Fine, fluffy powder clay that swells in water, it makes a great thickening ingredient. It helps stimulate circulation to the skin while gently exfoliating and cleansing it. It does not draw oils from the skin and can therefore be used on dry skin and sensitive skin. It is naturally absorbent and effective in skin masks, body packs, skin care products, body powders and deodorants.

Kojic acid – blocker of the enzyme tyrosine’s in melanocytes, activates the synthesis of melanin (brown pigment of the skin). It is used in bleaching preparations.

“L”

L-Carnitine – Antihyperlipoproteins with a remarkable effect in diminishing the edematous effect of obesity. Synergistic effect with the heterosides of Centella Asiatica to give an antideposition effect which persist after cessation of treatment.

Lavender - has a regenerating effect on skin. It is used in inflammation, redness and skin peeling.Suitable for the care of any skin. Increases immunity.

Lemon Oil – refreshing, antioxidative, improves blood supply, soothing.

Lifting the so-called “lift” - Sometimes surgical and non-surgical. Surgical facelift - surgery to remove age-related changes of tissues of face and neck. Non-surgical - non-surgical method "braces" tissues of the face and neck.

Linoleic Acid – stimulates keratinocyte metabolism, soothing, improves skin immune system.

Lipofirm – (hydrocotyl extract/centella asiatica, L, carnitine, bioflavonoids, caffeine, algae ext., organic silica, Tea salicylate, D-Panthenol) anticellulite, slim complex. It improves lipolytic effect of fat reduction, reduces subcutaneous water, increase the skin firmness.

“M”

Marine Mineral Salt – antiseborrheic, antipruritic, soothing, sedative.

Marine Collagen – extracted from fish skins (tuna). It possesses a complex triple helix structure which is responsible for its high moisture retention properties. Acting as a moisture reservoir at the skins surface may improve elasticity prevents excessive moisture loss and so helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Marine collagen exhibits film forming properties and imparts a perceptible skin feel when included in all types of moisturizing creams and lotions. Helix structure which is responsible for its high moisture retention properties.

Marine Elastin – extracted from the conjunctive tissue of tuna fish. Elastin is the second most abundant protein in the skin after collagen. Ellastin fibers, which form the sub – epidermal network, are responsible for its elasticity and suppleness. Marin ellastin acts as a natural skin moisturizer, enhancing the flexibility of the dermis and improving skin feel. It leaves a colloidal film which mimics the natural protein responsible for skin elasticity.

Mango Extract – rich in enzyme which hydrolyses proteins, sugar and lipids. Stimulate keratinocytes and cellular growth.

Melissa Officials (Lemon Balm) Leaf Extract - Steam distilled from a plant native to the Mediterranean region, this oil adds a sweet, fresh citrus-like smell to personal care products. It is non-toxic, and may help fight infections.

Menthes Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil/Extract - Derived from the leaves of a plant commonly found in North America, this essential oil has a slightly milder, sweeter aroma than peppermint. It is believed to increases alertness, open up the respiratory system and lift the spirit. Used sparingly, it can bring a sense of calm and relaxation. It also is a good remedy for nausea and fever. In skin care, spearmint is often used in soaps and facial toners to help cleanse and refine pores.

Menthol - Soluble in both oil and alcohol, these clear, colorless crystals are steam distilled from peppermint oil. It has a powerful peppermint aroma. When applied to the skin, the ingredient gives a cooling sensation and acts as an analgesic by numbing the nerves after it cools. For this reason, it is often incorporated into muscle rub ointments. In skin care products, menthol is added to help balance the oil content of skin and hair.

Milk Proteins – partially hydrolyzed milk protein possesses moisture retentive properties, imparting conditioning.

MPC – Milk Peptide Complex – bioactive polypeptides (cytokines), stabilized in part of the extra cellular matrix of milk represent the powerful active principle of MPC. Cytokines as messenger molecules: detect skin deficiencies, modulate cell functions and control physiological skin balance (homeostasis). Activity and efficacy control of MPC on human skin: improvement in skin firmness and elasticity increase in skin thickness reduction of skin roughness anti-cellulite bioactivity.

“N”

Nettle – contains flavonoids and volatile production, enzymes, polysaccharides, citric, acid, carotene, vitamins, trace elements. Regenerates, moisturizes skin, and promotes healing of wounds and abrasions.

Nonfat Dry Milk - Milk has been used in skin care for thousands of years. First developed in Russia in 1802, milk powder is a nourishing addition to bath, bath bomb, and milk soap and lotion formulations. It is a natural emollient and is rich in vitamins and minerals. Whole milk powder soothes and moisturizes the skin and helps relieve dryness and skin irritation.

“O”

Olean European (Olive) Fruit Oil - Pressed from the pulp of fully ripe olives, this oil is high in oleic acid and is believed to be a good skin cell regenerator. It attracts external moisture to the skin while still permitting the skin to properly release sweat, shed dead skin and release sebum. This oil is good for treating mature, inflamed or dry skin. It also makes an excellent conditioner for hair and nails. In soaps, this oil creates a long-lasting, non-drying mild product with creamy lather.

“P”

Pearl Moss – polysaccharide synthetic origin, derived from the Icelandic denying. Disperse powder white or cream-colored odorless and tasteless, easily soluble in water and dispersed in glycerin is a good stabilizer.

Papaya Extract & Papain – papaya extract titrated in papain, which hydrolyzes proteins and also some sugar and lipids. It makes a strong peeling extract that is recommended especially for professional use.

Passion Extract – hydrolyzes proteins and lipids.

Perfluorodecalin – PFC is intended for cosmetic and medical products, having biostimulating, wound healing and regenerating actions, It’s carrier of biological substances. The analyze of all experimental results of application of PFC emulation indicates the following mechanics of its biological action on skin cells: 1) dissolving big quantities of gazes the PFC take part in the process of gazotransportation ensuring “aeration” of cells skin.2) the emulsion PFC is a corpuscular system with particles of 100nmof diameter which cooperate with special cells of organism. 3) the PFC are able to dissolve in a hydrophobia region of biological membranes that ensures an anesthetic like of the membrane to the PFC defending cellular membranes from different unfavorable influences. 4) The PFC stimulates the metabolism of keratinocytes. 5) The PFC has wound healing and antipyretic actions in the dose of 0, 01 PFC g/cm of the skin with oxygen content of atmosphere. 6) The histological expertise of the skin biopsies has found out a biological activity of the preparations that manifested in fibrohistiocytic reaction of subepidermic sections and in increasing of mitotic activity in a layer of the derma. 7) The PFCs facilitate penetration of any biological active substances (for example vitamins, extracts, medicinal additions) into skin increase its effectiveness.

Peppermint Oil - improves blood supply, antimicrobial, helps for acne, antiphlogistic, refreshing.

Plant Oligoproteins – this is a solution of natural trace elements (taken from clay) and fixed hydrolyzed plant extract (despecified pollen, wheat germ or corn germ). Therefore these Plant Oligoproteins provide the two main factors of the cell activity. This is a strong anti-ageing agent.

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil - Expeller pressed from the pulp of ripe avocado fruit, this oil is rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B5 (Panthothenic acid), D and E, minerals, protein, lecithin and fatty acids. It has the highest penetration rate among similar oils (corn, soybean, olive and almond) and is comprised mostly of oleic, linoleic and linoleinc acids, as well as palmitic and palmitoleic acids, lecithin, phytosterol and carnotinoids. It is useful, penetrating oil for dry skin and eczema. Avocado oil can be used in massage and moisturizing creams, lotions, balms, body butters, hair oils and lip balms. Its high percentage of unsaponifiables also makes making it an excellent ingredient for soap.

Phytosteryl Canola Glycosides - This bioactive natural ingredient is the product of pure natural lipids with a high content of sterol esters and canola glycerides. Natural sterols have the potential to behave like cholesterol to strengthen skin cells, thus improving skin’s barrier properties. In some studies, this substance has shown a positive impact on sensitive skin or aging skin by improving skin imbalances, increasing the skin’s barrier and providing potential soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. The ingredient provides excellent moisturizing and soothing properties in skin care products.

Pinus Sylvestris (Pine Needle) Oil - Steam distilled from the needles of pine trees, this essential oil have a familiar pine scent. It can irritate skin, but it is otherwise non-toxic and has excellent antiseptic and deodorant properties. As a disinfectant and an infection fighter, pine is also very effective in a penetrating liniment for sore muscles or joints.

Preservatives - substances that protect cosmetics from microbial contamination and decomposition under the influence of adverse environmental factors (sun, oxidation on contact with air, humidity, temperature, etc.). They prolong the shelf life of cosmetic products, ensuring consumer quality and efficiency. Preservative properties have essential oils, vitamin C, derivatives paraoksibenzoynoy acid izotiazolin and others.

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil - Expeller pressed from air-dried apricots, this essential oil is a triglyceride rich in vitamins A and E. In skin care products, this emollient is a natural alternative to mineral oil, adding good lubricity to products. It is rapidly absorbed and helps skin retain elasticity, clarity, and suppleness. This oil is recommended for mature, sensitive and inflamed, irritated or dry skin. It makes wonderful massage oil for babies and adults and is used extensively in aromatherapy, face and body creams, lotions, balms, lip care, hair care and soaps.

“R”

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil - Derived by various methods from the seeds of the castor plant, found in India, Russia, Brazil, China and Mediterranean countries, this oil is very thick with a slightly sticky texture and a mild odor. Castor oil is rich in fatty acids and is soothing and lubricating. It offers anti-inflammatory properties, helps treat eczema, psoriasis, chapped skin and burns and moisturizes skin. It is a humectant that attracts moisture to the skin. It also acts as a protective barrier and is routinely used in soaps, hair oils, balms and other thick emulsions for the skin and hair.

Rubus idaeus (Red Raspberry) Seed Oil - Cold pressed from the tiny seeds of raspberries, this oil has an exceptionally high proportion of alpha and gamma tocopherols (vitamin E), vitamin A and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. It has strong antioxidant properties and contains ellagic acid, which is anticarcinogenic, antimutagenic, antibacterial and antiviral. It is believed to provide broad-spectrum protection from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays. Highly moisturizing and emollient, it has stronger anti-inflammatory properties than other similar oils, and may be the most effective oil for the treatment of eczema, psoriasis and other skin conditions. It is a nourishing and healing addition to balms, creams, sun protection and other skin care products, including acne formulations.

“S”

Saliva Sclarea (Clary Sage) Oil - Steam distilled from the flowers and leaves of a biennial herb native to southern Europe, this essential oil is calming to both the body and the mind. It can help alleviate symptoms of menopause and cool painful muscles and joints. It also helps balance the production of sebum, clear oily complexions and control skin conditions like acne. It can be useful in toners and make-up removers.

Sesame Indicum (Sesame Seed) Oil - Expeller pressed from the seeds of a plant found in tropical regions of Asia, Africa and South America, this heavy oil is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins A, B and E, calcium, magnesium and phosphorous. It has many of the same emollient properties as olive oil, as well as other nut and vegetable oils. This oil helps to maintain integrity of skin tissue while restructuring and moisturizing the skin. It is often found in massage oil, bath oil and sun care oil formulations.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil- Expeller pressed from the nuts of a plant found in the deserts of the U.S. and Mexico, this essential oil contains protein and minerals, as well as a waxy substance similar to collagen. It has antioxidant properties and contains a natural anti-inflammatory called myristic acid. Offering the traits of both an oil and a wax, it is an ideal ingredient in soap, cream, lotion, balm and massage oil formulations. It is highly penetrating and closely resembles skin’s natural sebum. In facial products, it helps to remove excess oils and to help balance the skin's natural oil. This oil can also help lighten and heal scars and reduce wrinkles and stretch marks.

Silk Amino Acid & Hydrolyzed Silk Protein – is composed principally of free amino acids occurring in silk. The low average molecules weight enables the molecules to penetrate the surface layer of the epidermis. This coupled with the natural hydroscopic and substantitivy of amino acids produces a deep conditioning effect when applied to the skin and hair. Combining the moisturizing properties of silk amino acids with the film forming properties of hydrolyzed silk protein, they help to retain at the skin surface, implanting a smooth conditioned after feel.

Spiruline – photo protective, free radical attacts preventing, antioxidant due to carotenoids (beta-carotene) and vitamins (vit. E) nourishing, due to the high protein content (the range of essential and non essential amino acid corresponds to that of milk or meat); moisturizing, thickening ( due to Polysaccharides); helps in developing and maintaining of bones, teeth, nails and of a number of metabolic process (thank to minerals and trance elements); cosmetics applications: lotion and creams for dry skins, protecting products against free radicals, nourishing mask for ageing skins.

Spongilla – marine and freshwater sponges. They provide stimulating effect on epidermis kerattinocytes. These fine and evenly sized micro balls provide for a mild and precise scrubbing action. Since they have a large capacity to absorb fatty substances, they make it possible to add a “sebocapturing” effect to the exfoliating effect. They have strong anti-acne and immunostimulant effect. Their use especially in phytopeelings preparations is very useful.

Stinging Nettle Extract – hyperemic, astringent, slimming effect.

Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein - Derived from sun-ripened soya beans and stripped coconut fatty acid, this ingredient provides mild, gentle conditioning and generates a rich, natural lather. It is often used as a hair and skin conditioner.

“T”

Tea Salycylate – hyperemic, anti-cellulite.

Tea Tree Oil – is a very efficient anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial agent but delicate to handle since it is sensitive to oxidation, volatile and has an intensive odor. In the presence of light and oxygen the terpenoids contained can be converted to p-cymene, an agent potentially causing skin irritation and allergic reactions. To avoid this we use complexion tea tree oil with cyclodextrins. It’s delivery and protection system. This minimizes these disadvantages and preserves its full activity.

Theobroma Cacao (Cacao) Seed Butter- This pure, crushed butter is obtained from the seeds of trees grown in Central and South America and Africa. Known for its hydrating effects and pleasing aroma, cocoa butter may help relieve stress, boost the immune system, and even prevent cancer because of its CMP content. It is rich in antioxidants and many vitamins and minerals, including vitamin E, which helps to soothe, hydrate and balance the skin. It also helps boost skin’s collagen production, which helps to combat wrinkles and other signs of aging. This nourishing ingredient softens and soothes dry, chapped skin, helps to treat skin irritations, and is often used as a thickening agent in lip balms and skin creams. Pregnant women across the world smooth Cocoa Butter on their bellies to help prevent and minimize the appearance of stretch marks by keeping the skin supple.

Titanium Dioxide - Titanium dioxide occurs in nature as the well-known, naturally occurring minerals retiles, anatine and brooked. The most common form is rutile, which is also the most stable form. Titanium dioxide is the most widely used white pigment because of its brightness and very high refractive index. This mineral imparts a whiteness to color cosmetics and personal care products applied to the skin, nails and lips, and it helps to increase the opacity of formulas. Because it absorbs, reflects, or scatters light (including ultraviolet radiation in light), it can help protect products from deterioration. This property also makes it an important ingredient in sunscreens, where it can successfully reflect UVA, UVB and UVC rays, helping prevent skin cancer and the signs of premature aging that can result from sun damage.

Tocopherol - This natural form of vitamin E is the most effective antioxidant, protecting cellular structures against damage from free radicals and the by-products of fat per oxidation. It acts as a free radical scavenger to prevent the by-products of chemical-cell interaction that causes cell damage. Its moisturizing and restorative qualities make it an important component of many skin care products including anti-aging creams and lotions, UV protecting products, moisturizers, burn treatments and belly creams to prevent and reduce the appearance of stretch marks.

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil - Made from the heart of common wheat grains, this oil is high in lecithin, fatty acids and vitamins A, D and E. Because of its high vitamin E content, it has antioxidant properties. It is exceptional for treating dry skin, and is said to promote smoother, younger looking skin, assisting in healing scar tissue and reducing the appearance of stretch marks.

“U”

Urea – urea is useful for softening and dissolving necrotic protein acetous tissue.

Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract/Leaf Powder - Pressed or steam distilled from the leaves and root of a plant found in temperate regions of Europe, Asia, Africa, Australia and South America, this ingredient a good source of chlorophyll, histamines, formic acid, mucilage, minerals and vitamins A and D. It has astringent and antioxidant properties, helps promote circulation and shine, and is nourishing and strengthening. This ingredient is excellent for treating eczema and other dry skin conditions and is used as a natural, deep cleanser for oily skin. It is often found in hair care products and sometimes used in soaps to give them a natural green color.

“V”

Vitamin A – improves epithelization (thickness the epidermis, normalizes keratinization), increases mitosis activity, improves the skin’s elasticity, normalizes enzyme activity, counters the effects of ageing.

Vitamin B – complex – is a glycolic-aqueous yeast extract (saccharomyces cerevisiae), which contains per 100-g extract the following vitamins: B3, PP, B1, B2, B6, B12. Yeast’s important Vit. B suppliers. A deficiency of these vitamins show itself in various ways: seborrhoeic inflammations. Dry and scaly skin, chapped comers of mouth, hair problems and fragile nails.The protective mechanism of the skin in particular can be supported by cosmetics containing yeast extracts. Due to its natural content of proteins (glutei & aspartic acid, lysine) and carbohydrates the complex is more effective than the individual vitamins themselves.

Vitamin E – increases the moisture-retaining ability of the epidermis, improves the skin’s surface, relief and feel (softness, suppleness), hen anti-inflammatory effect, reduce lipid per oxidation, prevents skin damage by free radicals, and protects cosmetically formulation from oxidation.

Vitamin C - Also known as Ascorbic Acid. A water-soluble nutrient essential for maintaining optimal health. It can be used in skin preparations to slow down hyper-pigmentation whilst providing some UV protection. It is also used in anti-aging creams because of its preservative and antioxidant properties.

“W”

Wheat Protein Extract & Amino Acid – is hygroscopic and exhibits powerful moisture binding properties. Due its low average weight is able to penetrate the stratum cornea and hair cuticle to moisturize from within. Functional benefits: proven moisture retention and regulation proven hair cuticle penetration from shampoo and conditioner bases substantive at low concentrations to skin and hair.

Witch Hazel Distillate – astringent agent, mild disinfectant, anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory.

“Z”

Zea Mays (Corn) Starch - Cornstarch is a silky powdery starch made from corn. It is used in body powders, cosmetics, milk baths and bath bombs to add silkiness and to soothe the skin. Cornstarch is a safer alternative than using talc on babies. It can be added to diaper area barrier creams to keep the skin dry and protected from moisture. When used in water-based formulations, cornstarch acts as a thickener.

Zinc Oxide - This white powder has wonderful astringent properties and a great soothing effect for use in many skin care formulas, including calamine lotion. It physically works to provide 28 times the skin’s natural protections against harmful UVA and UVB rays, and is often used in ointments, creams, and lotions to protect against sunburn and other damage to the skin caused by ultraviolet light. Additionally, it is used to thicken lotions and creams, add white pigment to face, body and nursery powders.

 



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